Back into moth recording

Late May, and while the weather is still a bit chilly due to cold winds, I noticed moths coming to lit windows and decided it was time to carry out one of my aims for the year: get back into moth recording. With my parents visiting, I hoped I might find something interesting for them to look at.

It turned out that there wasn't much in the trap when I got up at the crack of dawn. In some ways, this was a good thing; a big catch to work through would have taken a long time, especially as my identification skills are so rusty. On the other hand, the few moths here compared to the number and variety I had back on the farm is a bit depressing.

The results, in 2013 checklist order since I need to get back into good recording habits!

70.054 BF1727 Silver-ground Carpet Xanthorhoe montanata : 2
70.226 BF1906 Brimstone Opisthograptis luteolata : 3
72.020 BF2060 White Ermine Spilosoma lubricipeda : 1
73.002 BF2449 Dark Spectacle Abrostola triplasia : 1
73.032 BF2425 Nut tree Tussock Colocasia coryli f. medionigra : 1
73.102 BF2302 Brown Rustic Rusina ferruginea: 2
73.329 BF2102 Flame Shoulder Ochropleura plecta : 5

23.5.18. 15 moths, 7 species. (Wot, no micros? - Ed)

I only realised I had a Dark Spectacle (rather than The Spectacle) when I looked at my photo and saw the cross-lines edged with reddish-brown. The moths I puzzled over were the Nut-tree Tussock and the Brown Rustic. The latter was because, after a late spring, could I really have Brown Rustics in late May when they normally appear from June? But the white marks on the leading edge of the wing and the cross-lines are the key and this male is quite fresh. I must look out the stones and slate I used to use for taking moth photos, although my thumbnail gives an idea of scale.

Brown Rustic Rusina ferruginea

As beautiful and accurate as Richard Lewington's illustrations are in the Field Guide, I don't think they do the Nut-tree Tussock justice, as it's much fluffier and more beautiful in real life. I thought I'd seen it before, but couldn't think what it was and initially looked at the Tussock moths, which are in a different family. The word 'tussock' niggled at me and a scan down the index and through the illustrations confirmed the identity of my lovely visitor.

Nut-tree Tussock Colocasia coyli f. medionigra

Having managed to ID everything (eventually), I feel less daunted by my rusty ID skills. Bring on the next session!

Spring Steps socks

After the Hermione’s and wearing my pair of ‘Desk Drawer socks’, I decided perhaps my own ‘Everyday’ socks could be improved and that I should have a quick experiment. I didn't fancy the Stylecraft Head Over Heels 'Sugar Loaf' for a pair of my own socks (I've had enough pink for the time being from the 'Olympus' colourway used for the Hermione socks), but I wouldn't have bought the yarn if I didn't think it was quite pretty. Lovely, fresh, pastel colours would put a spring in someone's step, so I decided that this pair should go into my stock, either for sale or as a raffle prize or giveaway.

Here's the pattern:

Yarn & Needles: 4 ply yarn sock yarn on 2.75mm dpns
Cast on: 64 stitches
Cuff: 16 rounds K1P1 rib (as on the Hermione’s Everyday Socks, but fewer rounds)
Leg: 54 rounds
Heel: Priscilla Wilde’s No Mess No Fuss Short Row Heel, worked over half the total stitches (32) with 12 central stitches and 10 stitches on each side.
Work short rows back and forth, slipping the first stitch purlwise at the start of each row, leaving an additional stitch at the end of each row with a gap where the work is turned. Once there are 10 stitches on each side of the central 12 stitches, work lengthening rows, knitting or purling 'across the gap' using K2tog, then make a stitch knitwise on the RS rows, P2tog and make a stitch purlwise on the WS rows, then turning the work and slipping the made stitch purlwise to start the next row, until all the side stitches have been worked back in, and not forgetting to make stitches after the last K2tog and P2tog to end up with 32 stitches back on the heel needle.
Foot: 60 rounds
Toe: Rounder toe with a side 'band'. Decrease rows 1, 4, 7, 10, 13, 16 and then every row from 17 onwards, (or for fewer cast on stitches, 1, 4, 7, 9, 11, 13, onwards, depending on how long or round you want your toe to be) knitting the first and last stitches and working SSK on the second and third stitches, K2tog on the penultimate 2 stitches of the instep/top of the toe and sole/under toes.
When only 10 stitches are left on the heel needle, work all of the instep stitches (with the last decreases) onto a single needle and use Kitchener stitch to close the toe.

I even managed to knit a matched pair!

Verdict:

• K1P1 rib looks smart, but I think I like K2P2 rib better for the cuff. I used to do 12 rounds only (1"/2.5 cm) but think the deeper 16 rounds looks better.
• The no mess etc short row heel is certainly faster than wrapping or lifting or whatever other technique to try to tighten and gap-close short row heels, but I still find the resulting triangular heel doesn't fit me so well (although it will be fine for anyone who doesn't have big round heels like mine!) German short rows seem to give a better finish, but I prefer Cat Bordhi’s Sweet Tomato Heel, which seems to give the best finish and shape of all of them.
• I've decided I like this rounder toe better then the one I was previously working, so I'll put this on my socks from now on, but I'm not sure about the side 'band' formed by working the decreases 'one stitch in'. I wonder if it makes a difference in terms of wear.
• I arranged the yarn start for the second sock to knit a matching pair, but a variation in the yarn meant that the second toe was a little different. Best laid plans, eh?

Belly Dance Classes Relaunched!

Since effectively stopping classes last September, I've been doing a lot of planning, soul-searching and casual market research. I thought I would record and share the results and planning process!

'I think I'm probably too old (this from a 30 year old and a 73 year old!)'
Too old at 30? But seriously, you are never too old. You can work gently and within your comfort zone, at your own pace, and sit down and rest if you need to, whatever your age. I try to provide inclusive classes, whether for age, shape/size/level of fitness, disability, or gender.

'I want a midweek, evening class.'
Only one respondent wanted a daytime class, most were working or otherwise occupied (volunteering, other activities) during the day. Fridays were too vulnerable to weekend plans and the desire to just get home and put feet up at the end of the week.

One respondent wanted a class which started early, so they could go from work, but most wanted to at least be able to go home and change. (The danger is, of course, that once home, it can be hard to motivate yourself to go back out again!)

'An hour's class is enough - an hour and a half can feel like too much.'
So all classes are now an hour long, with an option for extra rehearsal time after class for those who wish to perform.

'It shouldn't end late - I want/need to be home by 9.30.'
(Because I have caring responsibilities/need to be up for work the next morning)
So classes are 7.00-8.00 pm, rehearsals 8.00-9.00 pm.

'I don't want to have to travel far - preferably not more than 5 miles.'
('Because it adds to costs, and time away from home - a consideration if you have other things to get done, or caring responsibilities.')
The location of classes is an issue; they are best placed in the population centres; that is, towns, rather than out in the villages. That said, being in town is no guarantee of attendees, particularly with the competition from other activities for attendees and venues.
With Narberth's Bloomfield Centre an established venue for the Thursday class, and Hubberston and Hakin Community Centre newly available on Tuesdays for a Milford Haven-based class, the main issue was to find a place for the Haverfordwest Wednesday class.
I checked out a dozen venues (over a couple of months - it took 3 weeks just to discover the booking contact for one venue!), only to find that none were suitable; either they were booked, or booked until 8.00 pm (therefore only for a late class), or they were too expensive (including one where if you wanted a full hour's class, you would have to book and pay for the venue for two hours). Or there was no adjacent parking (I have a lot of clobber, including a heavy suitcase) and no safe access after dark between the hall and a 'remote' car park. In the end, I rebooked Spittal, which is a nice hall and reduces the distance for anyone coming from the Fishguard end. Those in Haverfordwest then have a choice - Spittal or Hubberston.

And there's always car-sharing to split travel costs ....
'I don't have transport.'
It's difficult when you don't know anyone, but there are potentially car shares available, including a couple of spaces in my car for Narberth and Spittal classes.

'I can't/don't want to have to commit to classes.'
('Because of health conditions, cash flow, shift working or other activities, caring responsibilities.')
I understand that (however much it creates difficulties for me as the provider). So don't feel you have to 'commit', but do make an effort to come when you can, and let me know when you can't. Simple.

'I don't want to pay for a block of classes in advance.'
('Because I can't afford it, or I know that I might not be able to make all of them, so will feel like I'm paying for nothing and not getting my money's worth.')
Talking to other teachers, having students pay for a block of classes in advance is a recommended way to get a bit of commitment and attendance at classes. But I have seen in practice that this doesn't necessarily work, (see the comment above).
I did some research into motivating students, but it was largely based around 'youth' type classes such as ballet, modern/jazz, street dance, where it's mostly the parents/guardians who are paying for the lessons, and incentives such as freebies and discounts work both for the students, who then want to come to class and provide the pester-power, and the payers.

I settled on having a drop-in rate of £5 for occasional attendees, and reduced rates per class for pre-paid cards for 6 or 12 classes. Yes, these are paid in advance, but the cards are flexible. They are for any of my Imago classes, in any of the three venues, and also for £5 increments towards Imago workshops. So you can go to two classes one week and none the next, then one the following week, whatever you want. You can split the card with one or more friends (though you'll have to decide who holds it). You need to remember to present them at the start of class. And they are valid for 6 months or at least until the end of July, depending on how classes go.
I've had a 'class card' system before, and it worked quite well, although I formerly also had cards for 24 and 36 classes, which weren't used. When I was looking for the old cards file to update it and print new ones, I found that my class rates have scarcely changed and the 6-class card price is the same as it was in 2011! What's not to love about that?

'I don't want a course, because if I miss a week I'll feel left behind.'

Okay, so no 'course'. The lesson plans will still include learning moves, drilling, follow-along or improvised dance, combinations and various props, but if you miss a week, it's no biggie. You'll still be building your dance skills, you can ask questions and request things to be covered in class. Just come and enjoy, week by week, whatever we're doing.

'I don't want to have to fill in a load of paperwork. Learning plans, induction tick lists? I'm here to dance!'
Some paperwork is necessary so that I have your details and can keep in touch if a class needs to be cancelled and to record who is there week by week. Otherwise, having a learning plan or a tick sheet for moves is up to you.

'I don't want to feel like I'm the only beginner.'
My classes have always been mixed level, as there have never been enough dancers to justify separate classes for beginners and improvers. I believe very firmly that everyone still does 'the basics' (you never really stop drilling isolations, hip circles, eights and undulations) but more experienced dancers will do them better and with frills on (layers, shimmies!).
With relaunched classes, there should be other beginners. Everyone is different and working at their own pace, finding some moves easy, others not so much. Perhaps bring a friend who is also a beginner?

'I want to join a class with several people already in it.'
This is a really difficult one. These are effectively new classes, and although I have had lots of enquiries and enthusiastic replies, it may still be the case that few people come. If it's not a course or block of classes which people have to commit to, then there are no guarantees how many people will turn up each week. If you're a little nervous, it's natural to want to lie low and hide at the back for a bit, or if you are dropping in for the social contact as well as some dancing, then finding you are one of three in a class could be enough to make you drop back out again.

The only solution to this is for people to come to class! Turn up for class, and bring a friend or two, the more the merrier!

While I was writing this, it occurred to me that much of it deals with reasons why people don't come to class. Hopefully the answers and solutions I've found will be reassuring and motivating, but it still leaves me with one question:

Why do I do this?
Because I love 'belly dance', in all its forms. I love the music and rhythms, and the way dance flows out as you let the music fill you. I love to teach. I love seeing frowns turn into grins as dancers discover what their bodies can do, or that others have the same issues. I love the energy and fun to be had from dancing in a group. I love the way that dance can dissolve barriers and reveal the truly beautiful souls of the dancers. I believe there are very few valid reasons not to dance and that, if you let it, it will transform your life.

Knee-high everyday socks

Last winter, I made a pair of socks while I was testing out my 'everyday' sock pattern, with my Mum in mind. She didn't know, but told me when I was fishing for present ideas that she didn't need any socks. Ah. Hmm.

She and my Dad visited at the start of December, and I gave her the socks anyway. They fitted perfectly and she was thrilled with them. So much so, that she asked if I could make a pair of knee-high socks too.

Well of course, my pleasure! I'd been looking for an excuse to use Drops Fabel Lavender Print (#904).
I started by using a Drops pattern as a reference for number of stitches around the cuff, but I can never get their gauge. I referred to a couple of other patterns and the suggested 84 stitches would stretch, but seemed a bit too tight. The decreases to shape the calf seemed a bit off too, and I got halfway down the first sock leg before I thought it really wasn't going to work, and frogged it. Time to do my own calculations and pattern, then!

Gauge and Calculations
My approximate gauge for 4 ply on 2.75 mm needles is 9 stitches and 12 rows to the inch/2.5 cm. I know for the foot and ankle, a 64 stitch sock will fit her more slender feet and ankles. So it would be a matter of calculating the starting number of stitches for the cuff and decreases to shape the calf down the ankle for a sock which would be comfortable on a 14.5" calf and 15" high (bearing in mind that widthways stretch reduces length.)

Working on the basis of rounding up the calf measurement for comfort (15"), multiply by 9 (stitches per inch) = 135 stitches.
Then decrease this by 25-30% for negative ease and adjust the result so it's divisible by 4 (for the k2, p2 rib cuff) = 92 or 96 stitches.
As I'd already rounded up, I cast on 92 stitches, distributing them 23 stitches on each of 4 needles.

Cuff
16 rounds k2, p2 rib (starting with the heel needles, designated N1 and N2, which is my preferred way of working, even if it's not perhaps a good technique. If you work differently, pay attention to where you place your centre back decreases as they need to align with the centre of the heel.)

Leg
40 rounds straight stocking stitch.

Decreases to shape the leg are in sets of 8 rounds. Reset the round counter and/or place a removable marker in the first stitch of the next round, which is a 'round 1' decrease round.
N1: knit to last 3 stitches on the needle, ssk (or k2tog tbl), k1
N2: k1, k2tog, knit to end of needle
N3 and N4 have the 'shin' stitches - knit all stitches.
Rounds 2-8 - knit all.
There are a total of 14 sets of 8 rounds to decrease 28 stitches, taking the total from 92 to 64 stitches.

Check the length and knit straight stocking stitch until it's time to start the heel. I added another 12 rounds at 64 stitches.
My preference is for Cat Bordhi's Sweet Tomato heel. If you're working a heel flap, you may not need the extra rounds.

Heel
For the heel, I have half the total number of stitches (=32) on the first needle.
Slip the first stitch purlwise on the first row, to help avoid a hole, then (for this number of stitches) work 5 pairs of stitches either side of a central 12 stitches.
I work three 'wedges', knitting the instep stitches after each wedge, and keeping the stitch tension very tight as I go from one needle to the next.
After the right hand pairs of stitches have been worked in for the last wedge, finish the round.

Foot
The next round starts the rounds for the foot. Reset the counter and/or place a removable marker in the next stitch to count the rounds for the foot. For this size, a UK 7/7.5, I worked 74 rounds.

Toe
The next round is the start of the toe shaping. Reset the counter and/or place a removable marker in the next stitch.
I use a paired decrease shaping; ssk or k2tog tbl at the start of the sole and upper needle(s) and k2tog at the end of the sole and upper needle(s) on rounds 1, 5, 8, 11, 13, 15, 17 (all stitches are knitted on the other rounds) and then decrease every subsequent round until you have a total of 20 stitches left.
With 10 sole stitches on one needle and the 10 'upper' stitches on a second, kitchener stitch the toe.

Start your second sock. (I find this helps avoid second sock syndrome, especially as longer socks take longer to knit.)

Weave in ends, give them a first wash and block to even out any loopiness in the heel shaping and other decreases.

Despite my best efforts to create a matched pair, differences in the dye pattern of the yarn meant that there were differences at the toe end. Oh well, best laid plans and all that.

Note, these were designed not to be very tight and the feedback was that they fitted perfectly, warm and comfortable, just right!

No elastic to cut in, no seams to rub, just warm toes and legs on cold winter days and a bit of happiness!

'Strong Heel' Socks

I can't believe I started these socks a year ago, and I've no idea when I finished them (probably only a couple of weeks after I started them). Then I got busy in the garden, and gave them their first wash before wearing, and months later blocked and photographed ... and then wore and washed them several times more ... and completely forgot to write up my notes. So, with apologies for the long post, here goes!

My Ravelry queue (for which, read wishlist of interesting things to knit and crochet) has over 1000 items on it, of which 200 or so are socks - just ridiculous! I need to have a cull, especially of those patterns I first queued up a few years ago when I was first learning to knit socks and experimenting with magic loop, toe-up, two at a time, and so on until I settled in a comfort zone of cuff-down on dpns. And then I stumbled across another pattern in Knitting Squirrel's blog for 'Strong Heel' socks.

I added it to the queue and then decided perhaps it was time for another pair of socks for myself. (Yes, I have other WIPs to finish, but I've realised I just like having several things on the go at once, so I can flit between projects as the mood takes me.) I'd been dithering about whether to have a pair in Drops Fabel 151 'Guacamole Print', (am I ready for orange and lime green?) then thought, to hell with it, why not have some zingy colour on my feet?

As Nicolette of Knitting Squirrel explains, the 'Strong Heel' sock is so-named, not  because it is a reinforced heel, but after its originator, Gerdine Crawford-Strong. It's an easy heel to work, because instead of a heel flap and pick-up-stitches and gusset, it's created by increasing the number of stitches on the heel needle, then working short rows (although they get longer) with decreases to turn the heel. The bottom of the 'flare' created by the increases effectively sits on the line where you would measure from the point of the heel across the instep/front of ankle and back round to the point of heel again, a critical measurement for those of us with wide heels and ankles.

As always when I come across a different technique and pattern for socks, I am uncertain about how well they might fit me. So I read through the pattern, paying attention to the size of needles and gauge, comparing this to my usual 72 sts on 2.75 mm dpns with an approximate gauge of 36 sts and 48 rnds  to 4"/10cm. (I think I may have mentioned elsewhere that I have something of a death-grip when it comes to knitting tension.)

I cast on my usual 72 stitches and did my usual 12 rounds of K2, P2 rib and 48 rounds of leg. Looking at the pattern, I realised that contrary to many patterns which have the heel stitches on needles 3 and 4, I've got into a habit of putting all of my heel stitches on one needle and designating it 'needle 1', starting my rounds with the heel stitches. This may not be a good way of working, so don't take this as a recommendation, but it works for me!

I reset the round counter for the flare shaping to help me keep track. I used kfb (knit into the front and back of the stitch) to do the 'M1' (make 1) increases in the 2nd and penultimate stitch of the heel needle on alternate, odd rows. This is where I had another waivery, doubting moment. If I just followed the pattern based on a  60 stitch sock, with 26 stitch/26 rounds of increases, would it fit? I needed width but not length. What was the logic behind this? I followed the link to Aaron Clark's instructions to see what that was about.

The explanation was that, assuming you were using two heel needles which each have a quarter of the total stitches, the heel needles should each end up with an extra number of stitches which is two less than the number they started with, nearly doubling the number of stitches.
So on a 60 stitch sock, each of 4 needles would start with 15 sts.
Two less than that is 13 sts.
So if you knit an increase round and a 'straight' round for every increased stitch, that's 2 x 13=26 rounds. (And across two needles, 26 extra stitches.)

So if I followed the same calculation, assuming I was using 4 needles, not 3:
72 stitch sock, divided over 4 needles = 18 stitches per needle
18-2=16 sts,
16 sts x 2=32 rounds.

Only a half inch longer, but a total of 36 stitches across the instep, 36 original heel stitches and an additional 32. 104 stitches in total.

That seemed huge; if I work at 9 sts per inch unstretched, it would fit an instep of 11.5 inches unstretched. I generally calculate a negative ease on my socks of (give or take) 25%, and if/when my ankles are a bit puffy, the socks need to stretch to 14". 9 sts x 14"= 126 sts, 25% (a quarter of which) is about 32 sts, so 126-32=94 sts. Otherwise the sock might be baggy and swim around my heels.
72 original stitches, plus 26 as originally suggested would be a total of 98 stitches and should be enough!

So, 26 rounds, 26 extra stitches (so my single heel needle had the original 36 stitches (half of 72) plus 26 extra equals 62 stitches on the heel needle).

The next little moment came when the heel starts on a wrong side and because I work 'heel needle first', there didn't seem to be any point in knitting the instep stitches after the increase row 25, let alone completing row 26 (I really don't need the length, not that one round makes much difference), as I would have had to knit across the heel stitches again before turning to start the heel. I compromised by completing the last increase round and then just knitting across the heel stitches, rather than completing the even numbered round too.

Turning the heel, I had to translate the pattern into a single needle's worth of stitches. It starts by working across the wrong side of what would have been the second heel needle and a few stitches on, the turn creating a gap between the worked and unworked heel stitches. (I've done this before, but it seems so long ago that I thought it worth documenting.)
R1 (WS) sl1, p31 (i.e. half of total heel stitches), p2tog, p1, turn
R2 (RS) sl1, k3, ssk, k1, turn
R3 sl1, purl to stitch before gap, p2tog ('over the gap' - decrease using stitches before and after gap), p1, turn
R4 sl1 knit to stitch before gap, ssk (over gap), k1, turn
 ...and so on, until all the stitches have been worked in. It finishes on a right side, so I completed the round by working the instep stitches.

I found that if I knitted everything back to the ends of the heel needle, I would have 32 stitches on the heel needle plus 36 on the instep needles, a total of 68.

The flare shaping of the heel brings you a good 15 rounds further down the foot than an all-in-one type of short row heel such as my favourite Sweet Tomato heel, so I did 45 rounds of foot before starting the toe shaping by decreasing to 64 stitches total and decreasing by 4 stitches, one each at the start and end of the heel and instep on rounds 1, 5, 8, 11, 13, 15, 17, 18, 19 20 to leave 24 stitches to Kitchener 12/12.

The first sock wasn't a bad fit, the heel shaping and decreases very neat, except that decreasing on the end stitches of the heel needle left holes when working around onto the instep stitches, which I hadn't noticed at the time. The longer leg meant it was a bit tight at the top. I decided to tweak a few things on the second sock, starting with 4 fewer rounds on the leg (so 44). The foot needed to be just a little longer, too.
Then I got a little hung up again on why 2 fewer stitches per heel needle? Sizing includes proportion, where did 2 stitches come from? All right, let's do a little more maths. (Don't be scared now, it's only numbers!)
For that original 60 stitch sock, half the stitches for the heel is 30 and the total increase was 26, which is an increase of approximately 86%.
So for a 72 stitch sock, the heel half is 36 and an 86% increase is an additional 30 stitches.

I decided to do those extra 4 sts, (and extra 4 rounds), as the length would be in and around the heel rather than the leg length, and the additional decreases would lengthen the foot a little.
On the heel decreases, I stopped a stitch short at each end of the heel needle, then started the instep with ssk, and used decreases on subsequent rounds to get down to 66 sts before starting the toe.

'Strong' heel socks in Fabel Guacamole print yarn

I think the second sock was better, even though it was only a matter of a few rounds and stitches here and there. I'd knit this heel again, even though it felt long during the back-and-forth increases, it was actually not a lot of fuss.

I recommend The Knitting Squirrel blog (linked above); well written and full of lovely photographs, tutorials and creative inspiration.

Building Work and Black-Headed Gulls

Over the past few (week)days, five earth moving machines have been hard at work in the field behind the house; two JCB tracked excavators with a site dumper each, and a different make of midi digger. There's also a telehandler parked, ready for the stacks of blocks, and insulated sheets, bags of sand and aggregate, and whatever else. The sounds of  revving engines as the dumpers try to get a grip, excavator drivers bouncing their buckets to remove the claggy soil and workmen shouting to make themselves heard echo and amplify off the surrounding houses. The excavators' yellow arms appear and disappear above the fence line, like strange, mechanical monsters.

Piles of topsoil have been deposited at this end of the field and the first footings are in for the new homes. I wonder how long it will take to build them?

I've heard some lapwing voices at night, and seen a small flock of 20-30 flying over, but not seen any in the fields as I have on previous years, even when it goes quiet on the weekends. The cats dislike the disturbance and don't stay out for long while there's work going on. I find it stressful too, and I know what's going on.

There are some visitors who don't mind at all. On Friday, I counted around 100 black-headed gulls taking advantage of the disturbed soil on the building-site field, with another 30 to 40 in a nearby field (where the horses are and where I would normally see the lapwings). Scanning through the gulls sitting in the field, I could see about a dozen herring gulls, their larger bodies punctuating the drift of black-headed gulls. The black-headed gulls on the building site seem fearless, pattering around in the furrows left by the dumpers and only  flapping out of their way at the last minute. The only bird to join the black-headed gulls around the working machinery was a pied wagtail. Even the robins, normally so bold and ready to take advantage of freshly turned soil, were nowhere to be seen.

Men and birds at work

The herring gulls prefer to wait until all is quiet on the building site, before they go to see what they can find. On the field in between, a few starlings, rooks and pairs of jackdaws pecked around in the grass.

Yesterday was a Saturday. No building work. Freezing cold with frequent icy showers on the northerly wind, the only bird I could see was Mr Blackbird sitting in the lilac. A glance out of the window just now showed several herring gulls, rooks, jackdaws and starlings on the fields, while a red kite wandered through the air above. Movement on the grass at the edges of the topsoil heaps caught my eye, and I saw three redwings pecking around - the first winter thrushes I've seen which haven't just flown over!

The clay soil doesn't drain well, and there's a scatter of puddles across the site, which the birds use for drinking water and baths. It's good to know that someone is benefiting from the noisy mess, however temporarily.

Big Garden Bird Watch 2018

Here we are again, but the chosen hour watching birds on Sunday 28th January yielded results which were not representative of the visitors which I've seen during casual observation while washing up or generally gazing out at the back garden. And this despite putting out bird food, which has proved quite popular.

Present and correct:
1 blackbird (male)
8 sparrows (peak number  last autumn was 18)
1 robin (a second one has been around recently)
1 starling (although there are lots more around)
1 blue tit

Absent without leave:
Dunnock
Wren
Gold finch - although I haven't seen one since autumn
Long-tailed tits - I haven't seen any of these since autumn, when the family supergroup flitting through the gardens and partying in the trees numbered 22
The pair of bullfinches
The pair of chaffinches
Mrs blackbird, and there's been a second male around
Song thrush
Jackdaws
Collared doves
Rooks

The bird feeder, with seeds and peanuts as well as a net of fat balls, has been more popular than last year's single net of fat and seed balls. I just wish the birds would come and be counted when the Big Garden Bird Watch is on!