Thursday, 24 May 2018

Back into moth recording

Late May, and while the weather is still a bit chilly due to cold winds, I noticed moths coming to lit windows and decided it was time to carry out one of my aims for the year: get back into moth recording. With my parents visiting, I hoped I might find something interesting for them to look at.

It turned out that there wasn't much in the trap when I got up at the crack of dawn. In some ways, this was a good thing; a big catch to work through would have taken a long time, especially as my identification skills are so rusty. On the other hand, the few moths here compared to the number and variety I had back on the farm is a bit depressing.

The results, in 2013 checklist order since I need to get back into good recording habits!

70.054 BF1727 Silver-ground Carpet Xanthorhoe montanata : 2
70.226 BF1906 Brimstone Opisthograptis luteolata : 3
72.020 BF2060 White Ermine Spilosoma lubricipeda : 1
73.002 BF2449 Dark Spectacle Abrostola triplasia : 1
73.032 BF2425 Nut tree Tussock Colocasia coryli f. medionigra : 1
73.102 BF2302 Brown Rustic Rusina ferruginea: 2
73.329 BF2102 Flame Shoulder Ochropleura plecta : 5

23.5.18. 15 moths, 7 species. (Wot, no micros? - Ed)

I only realised I had a Dark Spectacle (rather than The Spectacle) when I looked at my photo and saw the cross-lines edged with reddish-brown. The moths I puzzled over were the Nut-tree Tussock and the Brown Rustic. The latter was because, after a late spring, could I really have Brown Rustics in late May when they normally appear from June? But the white marks on the leading edge of the wing and the cross-lines are the key and this male is quite fresh. I must look out the stones and slate I used to use for taking moth photos, although my thumbnail gives an idea of scale.

Brown Rustic Rusina ferruginea

As beautiful and accurate as Richard Lewington's illustrations are in the Field Guide, I don't think they do the Nut-tree Tussock justice, as it's much fluffier and more beautiful in real life. I thought I'd seen it before, but couldn't think what it was and initially looked at the Tussock moths, which are in a different family. The word 'tussock' niggled at me and a scan down the index and through the illustrations confirmed the identity of my lovely visitor.

Nut-tree Tussock Colocasia coyli f. medionigra
Having managed to ID everything (eventually), I feel less daunted by my rusty ID skills. Bring on the next session!

Sunday, 13 May 2018

Spring Steps socks

After the Hermione’s and wearing my pair of ‘Desk Drawer socks’, I decided perhaps my own ‘Everyday’ socks could be improved and that I should have a quick experiment. I didn't fancy the Stylecraft Head Over Heels 'Sugar Loaf' for a pair of my own socks (I've had enough pink for the time being from the 'Olympus' colourway used for the Hermione socks), but I wouldn't have bought the yarn if I didn't think it was quite pretty. Lovely, fresh, pastel colours would put a spring in someone's step, so I decided that this pair should go into my stock, either for sale or as a raffle prize or giveaway.

Here's the pattern:

Yarn & Needles: 4 ply yarn sock yarn on 2.75mm dpns
Cast on: 64 stitches
Cuff: 16 rounds K1P1 rib (as on the Hermione’s Everyday Socks, but fewer rounds)
Leg: 54 rounds
Heel: Priscilla Wilde’s No Mess No Fuss Short Row Heel, worked over half the total stitches (32) with 12 central stitches and 10 stitches on each side.
Work short rows back and forth, slipping the first stitch purlwise at the start of each row, leaving an additional stitch at the end of each row with a gap where the work is turned. Once there are 10 stitches on each side of the central 12 stitches, work lengthening rows, knitting or purling 'across the gap' using K2tog, then make a stitch knitwise on the RS rows, P2tog and make a stitch purlwise on the WS rows, then turning the work and slipping the made stitch purlwise to start the next row, until all the side stitches have been worked back in, and not forgetting to make stitches after the last K2tog and P2tog to end up with 32 stitches back on the heel needle.
Foot: 60 rounds
Toe: Rounder toe with a side 'band'. Decrease rows 1, 4, 7, 10, 13, 16 and then every row from 17 onwards, (or for fewer cast on stitches, 1, 4, 7, 9, 11, 13, onwards, depending on how long or round you want your toe to be) knitting the first and last stitches and working SSK on the second and third stitches, K2tog on the penultimate 2 stitches of the instep/top of the toe and sole/under toes.
When only 10 stitches are left on the heel needle, work all of the instep stitches (with the last decreases) onto a single needle and use Kitchener stitch to close the toe.


I even managed to knit a matched pair!
Verdict:
  • K1P1 rib looks smart, but I think I like K2P2 rib better for the cuff. I used to do 12 rounds only (1"/2.5 cm) but think the deeper 16 rounds looks better.
  • The no mess etc short row heel is certainly faster than wrapping or lifting or whatever other technique to try to tighten and gap-close short row heels, but I still find the resulting triangular heel doesn't fit me so well (although it will be fine for anyone who doesn't have big round heels like mine!) German short rows seem to give a better finish, but I prefer Cat Bordhi’s Sweet Tomato Heel, which seems to give the best finish and shape of all of them.
  • I've decided I like this rounder toe better then the one I was previously working, so I'll put this on my socks from now on, but I'm not sure about the side 'band' formed by working the decreases 'one stitch in'. I wonder if it makes a difference in terms of wear.
  • I arranged the yarn start for the second sock to knit a matching pair, but a variation in the yarn meant that the second toe was a little different. Best laid plans, eh?