Knee-high everyday socks

Last winter, I made a pair of socks while I was testing out my 'everyday' sock pattern, with my Mum in mind. She didn't know, but told me when I was fishing for present ideas that she didn't need any socks. Ah. Hmm.

She and my Dad visited at the start of December, and I gave her the socks anyway. They fitted perfectly and she was thrilled with them. So much so, that she asked if I could make a pair of knee-high socks too.

Well of course, my pleasure! I'd been looking for an excuse to use Drops Fabel Lavender Print (#904).
I started by using a Drops pattern as a reference for number of stitches around the cuff, but I can never get their gauge. I referred to a couple of other patterns and the suggested 84 stitches would stretch, but seemed a bit too tight. The decreases to shape the calf seemed a bit off too, and I got halfway down the first sock leg before I thought it really wasn't going to work, and frogged it. Time to do my own calculations and pattern, then!

Gauge and Calculations
My approximate gauge for 4 ply on 2.75 mm needles is 9 stitches and 12 rows to the inch/2.5 cm. I know for the foot and ankle, a 64 stitch sock will fit her more slender feet and ankles. So it would be a matter of calculating the starting number of stitches for the cuff and decreases to shape the calf down the ankle for a sock which would be comfortable on a 14.5" calf and 15" high (bearing in mind that widthways stretch reduces length.)

Working on the basis of rounding up the calf measurement for comfort (15"), multiply by 9 (stitches per inch) = 135 stitches.
Then decrease this by 25-30% for negative ease and adjust the result so it's divisible by 4 (for the k2, p2 rib cuff) = 92 or 96 stitches.
As I'd already rounded up, I cast on 92 stitches, distributing them 23 stitches on each of 4 needles.

Cuff
16 rounds k2, p2 rib (starting with the heel needles, designated N1 and N2, which is my preferred way of working, even if it's not perhaps a good technique. If you work differently, pay attention to where you place your centre back decreases as they need to align with the centre of the heel.)

Leg
40 rounds straight stocking stitch.

Decreases to shape the leg are in sets of 8 rounds. Reset the round counter and/or place a removable marker in the first stitch of the next round, which is a 'round 1' decrease round.
N1: knit to last 3 stitches on the needle, ssk (or k2tog tbl), k1
N2: k1, k2tog, knit to end of needle
N3 and N4 have the 'shin' stitches - knit all stitches.
Rounds 2-8 - knit all.
There are a total of 14 sets of 8 rounds to decrease 28 stitches, taking the total from 92 to 64 stitches.

Check the length and knit straight stocking stitch until it's time to start the heel. I added another 12 rounds at 64 stitches.
My preference is for Cat Bordhi's Sweet Tomato heel. If you're working a heel flap, you may not need the extra rounds.

Heel
For the heel, I have half the total number of stitches (=32) on the first needle.
Slip the first stitch purlwise on the first row, to help avoid a hole, then (for this number of stitches) work 5 pairs of stitches either side of a central 12 stitches.
I work three 'wedges', knitting the instep stitches after each wedge, and keeping the stitch tension very tight as I go from one needle to the next.
After the right hand pairs of stitches have been worked in for the last wedge, finish the round.

Foot
The next round starts the rounds for the foot. Reset the counter and/or place a removable marker in the next stitch to count the rounds for the foot. For this size, a UK 7/7.5, I worked 74 rounds.

Toe
The next round is the start of the toe shaping. Reset the counter and/or place a removable marker in the next stitch.
I use a paired decrease shaping; ssk or k2tog tbl at the start of the sole and upper needle(s) and k2tog at the end of the sole and upper needle(s) on rounds 1, 5, 8, 11, 13, 15, 17 (all stitches are knitted on the other rounds) and then decrease every subsequent round until you have a total of 20 stitches left.
With 10 sole stitches on one needle and the 10 'upper' stitches on a second, kitchener stitch the toe.

Start your second sock. (I find this helps avoid second sock syndrome, especially as longer socks take longer to knit.)

Weave in ends, give them a first wash and block to even out any loopiness in the heel shaping and other decreases.

Despite my best efforts to create a matched pair, differences in the dye pattern of the yarn meant that there were differences at the toe end. Oh well, best laid plans and all that.

Note, these were designed not to be very tight and the feedback was that they fitted perfectly, warm and comfortable, just right!

No elastic to cut in, no seams to rub, just warm toes and legs on cold winter days and a bit of happiness!